Loretta Mueller, Jenyce Habibovic’s mom, places some chocolate croissants, fresh from the oven, into a bag for a customer on Friday, August 14, 2020, at Sweet House Bakery, across from St. Mary’s campus, in Rochester. (Traci Westcott / twestcott@postbulletin.com)
It's easy to miss, but worth the search. Sweet House Bakery shares the space with Pasquale's Express Pizza, and there is no sign. While the pizza sign and order window might throw you off, go inside, and you'll see her charming setup, complete with display cases full of wonderful baked goods, all made from scratch. Since opening in June, word of mouth and staff at Saint Marys has kept her ovens hot. Now we can, too.
Habibovic was born and raised in Stewartville, and grew up in the restaurant business. Her grandparents owned Tarsilla's, a well-known local restaurant, for decades. Her grandmother made cakes and pastries on the side. One of her specialties was elaborately decorated Barbie cakes, a tradition Habibovic has carried on. In fact, many of her recipes come from her grandmother.
She started with cakes — first for family, then for friends — from unique children's cakes to elaborate wedding cakes. She eventually got so busy she applied for a cottage food license. Her long-term dream was to open a bakery of her own, but her first commercial venture was selling at Thursdays on First.
Jenyce Habibovic packages up some a tractor cake on Friday, August 14, 2020, at Sweet House Bakery, across from St. Mary’s campus, in Rochester. (Traci Westcott / twestcott@postbulletin.com)
"I loved doing that, and the feedback was so positive and encouraging, but I also knew that I wanted to go beyond that," she said.
By the end of the day at Thursdays on First, Habibovic had very few leftovers, which she would give to other vendors. One of them was chef Pasquale Presa, owner of Pasquale's Neighborhood Pizzeria. He was so taken with her pastries that he approached her about sharing the Second Street space. It didn't take long for her to accept that proposition. She describes it as a "piggyback" business, with everything between the two separate.
Habibovic starts her day at 1 a.m., gets to the bakery by 2, and starts mixing and baking. She opens at 6 and closes at 10:30, when pizzas take over. In addition to her pastries, she also offers biscuits and gravy, individual-sized quiches, and breakfast sandwiches.
One of her specialties is a "kouign-amann," a French pastry similar to a croissant dough made with lots of butter and sugar. They're big enough to share.
Almond Kouign-amann is pictured on Friday, August 14, 2020, at Sweet House Bakery, across from St. Mary’s campus, in Rochester. (Traci Westcott / twestcott@postbulletin.com)
Her staff at this point is limited to her mother and a nephew, who help out, especially with cleanup.
"Baking can make a mess," Habibovic said.
By 10:30, most of her items are sold out. She is also a very generous spirit and often takes pastries to Saint Marys, as well as to staff at Canadian Honker and other places around town. As I look at what she has and what she has accomplished, I'm amazed that Habibovic has had no formal training in either culinary or pastry. Hers is a special gift.
In addition to her morning sales, she also does special orders, and has offered cake classes. When she isn't baking, she is caring for her husband and three young children. Of course Habibovic's long-term goal is to have her own bakery but for the time-bring this arrangement works very well.
Caramel rolls are pictured on Friday, August 14, 2020, at Sweet House Bakery, across from St. Mary’s campus, in Rochester. (Traci Westcott / twestcott@postbulletin.com)
Sweet House Bakery
Location: Inside Pasquale's Express Pizza, 1219 2nd St. SW, Rochester, across from Mayo Clinic Hospital-Saint Marys Campus
Hours: 6 to 10:30 a.m. Monday through Friday
Phone: 507-398-7537
Online: http://sweethousebakery.org or "Sweet House Bakery" on Facebook (www.facebook.com/choosehappy.eatcake)
Post Bulletin food writer Holly Ebel knows what’s cookin’. Send comments or story tips to life@postbulletin.com.
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