“IT’S AMAZING what a splash of vinegar will do for an oily fish. “This is a British version of fish en escabeche, sweet and sour,” said chef Tomos Parry of his third Slow Food Fast recipe, for grilled mackerel with “soused” vegetables.

First, Mr. Parry simmers root vegetables in a light pickling liquid made with fish stock, vinegar, olive oil, coriander, orange peel and a little honey. As the veggies soften, he gives the mackerel a quick sear to crisp its skin. Finally, the fish goes into the pan with the vegetables just...

The Chef: Tomos Parry

Illustration: Michael Hoeweler

His Restaurants: Brat and Brat at Climpson’s Arch, in East London

What He’s Known For: Simple cooking over live fire. Meticulous sourcing. An unpretentious welcome and an ambitious vision.

“IT’S AMAZING what a splash of vinegar will do for an oily fish. “This is a British version of fish en escabeche, sweet and sour,” said chef Tomos Parry of his third Slow Food Fast recipe, for grilled mackerel with “soused” vegetables.

First, Mr. Parry simmers root vegetables in a light pickling liquid made with fish stock, vinegar, olive oil, coriander, orange peel and a little honey. As the veggies soften, he gives the mackerel a quick sear to crisp its skin. Finally, the fish goes into the pan with the vegetables just to cook through.

He likes to serve this rustic dish straight from the pan, with some grilled bread and perhaps a salad. It’s the sort of straight-ahead, full-flavored cooking that recently won Mr. Parry’s East London restaurant Brat a spot on the World’s Best 50 Restaurants list. A version of mackerel with soused vegetables has been on the menu since Brat opened in March 2018. “And it will always be,” Mr. Parry said. “It’s part of who we are.”

—Kitty Greenwald is a chef, food writer and the co-author of ‘Slow Fires’ (Clarkson Potter)

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