If ever there was a polarizing bubbly, tonic water is it — the bitter kick is easy to hate. But those who appreciate bitter flavors know the magic it brings to a splash of gin, a glass of cranberry juice, or a shot of anything sweet and citrusy.

Tonic water is a bitter, citrusy carbonated drink that’s flavored with quinine, which comes from the bark of the cinchona tree. It was introduced in the 1800s as a cure for malaria, but the flavor quickly caught on. Today it’s a cocktail essential, most notably in the iconic gin and tonic.

Store shelves are crowded with tonic water options, including light and diet versions, flavored tonics and “Indian” tonics, which are often sweeter. For this taste test, we tasted traditional tonic waters, which typically include sugar, citric acid and sometimes a pinch of salt. By law, quinine levels are limited to 85 mg per liter, as quinine can be poisonous at high levels.

Flavor variations between brands are huge. Great tonic water delivers bold, sharp hits of bitter citrus and minimal sugar. Made right, it hits all the notes — sour, sweet, herbal, bitter — and is punchy enough to add complexity to spirits and juices without watering them down. Bad tonic is watery and flat or cloyingly sweet, Or it  tastes like chemicals.

Here are the splashy details on bright, lively tonic waters worthy of mixing with top-shelf spirits — and the sugary, flat, acrid mistakes. Nutrition details refer to 8 ounces.

Fever Tree Premium Indian Tonic Water

No wonder this brand is so popular with bartenders. It has a sharp punch of quinine, perfect carbonation and just enough sugar. 82 calories, no sodium, 19 g sugar. $4.99 for a 4-pack of 6.8-ounce bottles at BevMo. (4 stars)

San Pellegrino Tonica

This Italian-brand water has sass. It’s extra-bitter and has a mere touch of sugar. This one isn’t for wimps. 59 calories, no sodium, 14 g sugar. $4.99 for a 4-pack of 6.75-ounce bottles at Total Wines & More. (4 stars)

Fentimans Tonic Water

Those who want a complex, herbal tonic with huge personality may enjoy this unusual version. It’s impressive — and pricey. 67 calories, no sodium, 11 g sugar, $5.99 for a 4-pack of 4.2-ounce bottles at BevMo. (3½ stars)

Q Tonic Water

Clean flavor thanks to the use of agave and a good hit of quinine make this a good choice, but it could use more carbonation. 45 calories, 10 mg sodium, 11 g sugar. $2.99 for 16.9 ounces at Total Wines & More. (3 stars)

Boylan Heritage Tonic Water

The sweet style of this water nudges it into the soft drink category. This is the one to serve on ice with a twist of lime. 96 calories, 20 mg sodium, 24 g sugar. $5.99 for a 4-pack of 10-ounce bottles at Total Wines & More. (2½ stars)

Llanllyr Source Tonic Water

Too much citrus and not enough quinine result in an unbalanced, overly sweet water. 77 calories, no sodium, 19 g sugar. $5.99 for a 4-pack of 6.8-ounce bottles at Total Wines & More. (2 stars)

Q Tonic Indian Tonic Water

The botanical notes in this water are fun, but the lack of carbonation is utterly disappointing. 80 calories, no sodium, 19 g sugar. 99 cents for 16.9 ounces at Grocery Outlet. (1½ stars)

Schweppes Tonic Water

Pleasant bubbles can’t quite redeem the inauthentic bitter note in this water. It’s drinkable but lacks charm. 87 calories, 37 mg sodium, 22 g sugar. $1.79 for 33.8 ounces at Safeway. (1½ stars)

Sunny Select Tonic Water

Those who like sweet, bubbly water with minimal bitter notes may enjoy this, but it’s far too wimpy to play with gin. 87 calories, 23 mg sodium, 23 g sugar. $1 for 67.6 ounces at Foodmaxx. (1½ stars)

Canada Dry Tonic Water

Drinkable? Yes. But this citrus-forward libation is sorely lacking in quinine. 93 calories, 33 mg sodium, 23 g sugar. $1.49 for 33.8 ounces at Foodmaxx. (1 star)

Signature Select Tonic Water

This utterly tasteless water with a mere trace of bubbles is guaranteed to ruin your cocktail. 93 calories, 10 mg sodium, 23 g sugar. $1 for 33.8 ounces at Safeway. (½ a star)

Buzbee’s Indian Tonic Water

A massive hit of honey and an acrid note from steviol glycosides make for a decidedly unpleasant sip — and it’s far too sweet. 31 calories, no sodium, 7 g sugar. $3.49 for 16.9 ounces at Total Wines & More. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.